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QUESTION
1 :
Dear Mr. and Mrs.,
I'm a student at the horticultural department of Humboldt
University to
Berlin, Germany. I want to write my diploma thesis in
the subject
ornamental plants especially to investigate Pachystachys
coccinea .
While searching for international literature for my diploma
thesis I found
your website which is very interesting indeed. I have
seen that your company works with Pachystachys coccinea
and offers them to the market. I kindly want to ask you
if you could help me with information about this plant
or could tell me some literature about it. My special
interest is in blooming-behavior, embranchment-behavior
and general information about cultivating. I would like
to show in my diploma thesis, which is the present state
of knowledge about it. I would be very happy if I could
get some information from you to pass on with my thesis.
I'm also open for exchange of ideas and information to
you.
• Germany
ANSWER
1 :
Pachystachys coccinea
Personal Observations:
*Keep in mind that these observations
where made in Delray Beach, Florida.*
Delray Beach is located at sea level with a mild dry winter
temperatures around ( 50F-75F or 10C-22C ) and occasionally
reaching around 0C. Our summer is hot and very humid,
with temperatures that range ( 75F-90F or 22C-31C ), occasionally
reaching 96F or 38C. The air humidity is around 90%. We
only have the Pachystachys coccinea in pots and grown
outside under a shade clothe ( not a greenhouse. )
Light:
Even though we have had the Pachystachys coccinea
growing in full sun before, this plant will get better
dark green leaf color under 50%-65% shade cloth.
Size:
The tallest plant we have ever had reached about
7' high and about 3'-4' wide in a 14" diameter pot.
Water
:
This plant likes moist soil, and will wilt very
fast when the soil is dry, but also it will come back
very fast once you water it again.
Flower:
The inflorescence is very beautiful. Bright red
flowers emerging out of a green cone. The plant will flower
most of the year, if kept warm, specially in the spring.
But it is not a very profuse bloomer, where you will see
flowers all the time.
Minimum
Temperature :
We start to notice some leaf damage
when the temperature goes bellow 35F or 1C. How much lower
can the temperature go before the plant will die? We don't
know. Last year we had temperatures around 32F or 0C for
a few hours a day and there was minimal damage on the
plant.
Fertilizer
:
For the Pachystachys coccinea we like to use
a slow release fertilizer, 13-13-13, a 90 day release
with minor elements made in Japan and sold under the name
" Nutricote." This fertilizer will produce a
sturdier and more compact plant, than regular fertilizer.
Pests and Diseases:Nothing serious that I can recall.
Bad Habits :
The worst feature in this plant is the
speed of growth during the warmer months and the big internode
elongation. The use of growth regulators is necessary
to produce a nice quality plant. We use a product called
Bonzi ( 1.3floz/gal .) Spray only on large plants.
This plant also has a tendency to become woody and leggy
at the bottom. Therefore, a severe trim is occasionally
recommended.
QUESTION
2:
Please send me a list of your fragrant plants.
ANSWER
2 :
Here are some of the best fragrant plants that we have.
Some of them are not available, but if you wish, we can
let you know when they become available.
•Brunfelsia
americana
•Brunfelsia
australis
•Gardenia
'White Gem'
•Hedychium
coronarium
•Hoya lacunosa
•Jasmine molle
•Jasmine sambac
•Lonicera
japonica
•Stephanotis
floribunda
•Portulandia
grandiflora
QUESTION
3 :
I need a good shade tree for the west side of my house,
maybe a Live Oak or Black Olive Tree- unless you have
a better suggestion. I don't know where to go for these
kinds of trees also. Maybe you know.
•Florida
ANSWER
3 :
Both of these are reasonably good shade trees, and both
can get huge. So don't plant it too close to your house.
Also, the Black Olive seeds can stain cars and pavements.
They are not difficult to find, many garden centers and
retail nurseries carry them.
I
can also suggest to you :
•Tabebuia
sp. ( pink )
•Queen Crape
Myrtle
•African Tulip
Tree
•Podocarpus
gracillius
•Satin Leaf
Tree
•Dombeya wallichii
QUESTION
4 :
I'm very interested in a Bougainvillea, purple color.
Could you please send me some information on this plant.
•Michigan
ANSWER
4 :
I fell in love with Bougainvilleas around 1978, and to
this day I am still in love with them. Bougainvilleas
are very easy to grow given these certain conditions :
•Lots of direct
sunlight
•Let the soil
dry before watering again
•They like
acidic soil and are heavy feeder
•Trimming
increases the number of flowers
•Keep the
foliage dry, especially during cold nights
•They grow
well in pots
•Their root
system is very sensitive. If you disturb the root ball,
they will loose all the leaves. The leaves will come back
eventually.
•They bloom
mostly during the short days of the year. Here for us
in Florida it is November-May. Your biggest problem is
going to be keeping them warm, above 35F, and still provide
them with plenty of sun during the winter.
QUESTION
5 :
I would like some information on the Variegated Pink Serissa
( Serissa foetida.) I have a one gallon specimen I received
as a gift.
ANSWER 5 :
In my opinion the best use for Serissas are as Bonsai
plants. They grow well in pots and some species bloom
profusely. Down here in Florida, we always keep them in
containers. They tolerate the hot sun in the winter, but
not in the summer. That is why we grow them in filtered
light. For water, they like an average amount. Not too
wet nor too dry. In size, Serissas can grow to about 3'-4',
but as I mentioned before, the nicest ones that I've seen
where small, and trimmed like little bonsai trees.
QUESTION
6 :
I'm interested in the Brunfelsia. You have this listed
as a shrub, but I have seen them grown as small trees.
How large do they grow ? I'm thinking of using this in
front of my house as a focal point. It is south location.
Any advice would be appreciated.
•Florida
ANSWER 6 :
You probably saw the Brunfelsia grandiflora trained as
a tree. They only grow to about 8' tall and sometimes,
due to cold weather, they don't look that great when in
bloom.
The best Brunfelsia around is the Brunfelsia pauciflora
' Compacta', which blooms in the fall and grows to about
5'. Another one is the Brunfelsia australis, which has
fragrant flowers on and off during the year, but only
grows to about 6'. If you are looking for a tree with
a similar look, perhaps you should try the Solanum macranthum,
Giant Potato Tree. It has 3 different color flowers on
the same plant like the Brunfelsia and grows to about
12'. It flowers year round.
QUESTION
7 :
I am interested in growing rare plants and tropicals.
I live in zone 7 . Can you recommend any plants that would
be hardy enough to plant outside?
•Maryland
ANSWER 7 :
I will recommend you to grow only tropical plants that
will grow well in pots. That way you can bring them in
when the temperature gets too low. Most tropical plants
start to get damage when the temperature drops bellow
40F. Some will tolerate 32F for a few hours. Bellow that
most of them will die. If you don't mind growing them
in pots and you have a warm place with enough light to
bring them into on cold days, you should be fine.
QUESTION
8 :
I saw your Clerodendrum wallichii, Bridal Veil in bloom
at the Heathcote Nursery Show in Ft. Pierce. Is it possible
that I could purchase or rent some for my daughter's wedding
on March 25th ? Would they be in bloom ? The plant so
aptly named
and perfect ! Of course, the bigger and showier the better.
•Florida
ANSWER 8 :
Unfortunately, the Bridal's Veil only blooms beautifully
in the fall. Sometimes you will see a few flowers in the
Spring, but nothing impressive like in the Fall. If I
may suggest, you could try Gardenias or Stephanotis floribunda.
Both of them flower in the Spring and have white fragrant
flowers.
QUESTION
9 :
I think I may have discovered the reason for my malady
with my Murraya paniculata; well, a friend of mine did.
There are tiny white bugs, shaped almost like little eggs
all over the branches. Have you ever seen or heard of
these pests and do you know what might eradicate the beast?
Please let me know as soon as you get a chance as the
tree is not in the best of shape.I tried a dish soap bath
last night in the hopes it would discourage the insects
for a moment.
ANSWER
9 :
Without seeing the tree and the bugs I can almost say
that the bugs are scales. It is a bad thing because scales
are hard to eradicate and heavy infestations can kill
branches and sometimes the entire tree. If you have only
1 plant, try to wipe them off with a swab or toothbrush
embed in alcohol. The best chemical to get rid of scales
is "Cygon" which you can buy in many garden
centers. Cygon is very toxic and needs to be handled with
care. I don't even like to recommend it to homeowners,
but if you have a bad infestation it may be the only chemical
that will save the tree. The safest way to use it is by
drenching the soil with it
( don't spray. ) Mix 1 TBS of Cygon per gallon of water.
The other milder solution for you is to spray the plant
with :
-safer soap
-ultrafine oil
You can find both of these things in a garden center.
For all these labels follow the label instructions.
QUESTION
10 :
I have a question about the Begonia ' Mandarin Orange'
that I ordered from you. It's a beautiful plant and seems
to grow rapidly. The only problem is that the older leaves
slowly turn brown at the tips, dry up, and fall off. Do
you know if this is normal growth pattern for a Begonia,
or is there some other answer ?
•Georgia
ANSWER 10 :
I'm guessing two possibilities :
1. Salt build up in the soil- This happens when salts from
fertilizers accumulate in the soil.
The solution for this is to flush the soil with clean
water about once a month.
2. Some kind of fungus or bacteria-These are very
common in muggy Summer days. Some Begonias may loose quite
a few leaves during this time, but normally recover late
in the Fall. Your solution for this problem is to bring
the Begonia to an area protected from rain. Avoid getting
the leaves wet when watering. Also, remove and dispose
of all leaves that fall.
QUESTION
11 :
Should I prune the stem or just the leaf of the Jatropha
podagrica - Buddha Belly Plant when it turns or falls
off?
ANSWER 11 :
Normally, you should just prune the bad leaves. They will
actually fall off by themselves. With cold temperatures,
the leaves will fall exposing the interesting trunk. The
plant will still keep blooming at this time.
The stem can be pruned, but it is best to be done in the
Spring.
QUESTION
12 :
Please could you help me with this question - can I successfully
grow Tibouchina grandiflora in sandy soil with a pH of
7.5. If not, is there anything I can add to make the soil
more hospitable to this beautiful plant?
ANSWER
12 :
Yes, Tibouchinas like acidic soil ( pH bellow 7.0 ). When
planting, incorporate a little bit of compost with the
existing soil. Add mulch every year. That should give
you a healthy Tibouchina.
QUESTION
13 :
I am looking for flowering perennial plants that can stand
the sun and heat hear in Las Vegas.
ANSWER 13 :
Here are some good suggestions:
•Adenium obesum-Desert
Rose
• Allamanda
cathartica 'Golden Butterflies'
•Jasmine sambac
"Maid of Orleans'
•Jatropha
podagrica- Buddha Belly Plant
•Malpighia
coccigera- Dwarf Holly
•Malpighia
punicifolia- Dwarf Barbados Cherry
•Pachypodium
rosulatum
•Punica granatum
'Nana'-Dwarf Pomegranate
QUESTION
14 :
I would also like information on a plant called Portulacaria
afra or elephant plant.
•Ohio
ANSWER
14 :
A picture is worth a thousand words. We have the picture
of the Elephant plant on our site. Visit our site and
view it. The Portulacaria Afra is a type of Jade plant
with thick succulent dark stems and green elliptic leaves
about 1/2"long. Without trimming it forms into a
scandent small shrub with cascading branches. With trimming,
it will grow upright like a miniature tree. I have never
seen any flowers in this plants, or pictures of it's flowers,
but I believe that it blooms in it's natural habitat of
South Africa.
QUESTION
15 :
I have been surfing your beautiful site, and admit I'd
like to send a huge order right now! However, I live in
Greensboro, NC, which is just about in the middle of Zone
7, which I would imagine knocks out most of your items
unless I grow them indoors. I noticed your
"Min. Temp" notations, & wondering if that's
the indicator of zone limitations or not. Are there groups
of your things that are suitable for my Zone 7 location?
How can I see a plant on your site & immediately know
if I could grow it here or not?
ANSWER
15 :
Most of our plants are very tropical and will not survive
the NC winter outside.
We knew from the beginning with starting this web mail
order thing, that most of our customers would be from
much colder places than Florida. That is why most of our
plants can be successfully grown in a container. The plants
must be brought in and protected in the winter in cold
places. So, if you are interested in any of our plants,
look at things that don't get very big. If you don't mind
growing them in a container and bringing them in when
it is cold; we have plants for you.
QUESTION
16 :
About 3 weeks ago we had a summer rain and our Adenium
obesum was saturated. The leaves turned yellow and brown
and are now dropping. Was it from the rain ? Can you tell
from the color of the leaves if the plant is too wet or
too dry ? At the top of the fat caudex new leaves are
growing. Do I let these grow, or should I remove them
?
•Nevada
ANSWER 16 :
Occasionally this type of situation happens to Adeniums.
It is caused by the leaves getting wet. It is nothing
serious to worry about. The only way to avoid it is to
keep it protected when it rains.
I grow all of my Adeniums outside, and with all the rain
that we get here in South Florida, the same situation
happens to me quite often. The only thing to worry about
here is if the soil doesn't drain well after the rain
and it gets mushy.
Regarding the new leaves on top of the caudex, most of
the time I remove them because I don't want new branches
developing from that area.
QUESTION
17:
I received the plants yesterday. As usual I was thrilled.
Thanks so much for the bonus I am building a greenhouse
this year and have plenty of room for beautiful and different
plants. You will hear from me often, I am very happy with
the quality of your plants. Have a question or two. Do
you have a good soil mix for the caudiciform. I am afraid
of overwatering and underwatering them. This is my first
time with them. Also the plants that say 35F min., Do
you think they should only be a container plant for me?
We did get two frosts this year. Barely 32F. Can you plant
them in the ground and pull them for winter? Do people
have success when they cover their plants during the cold
weather. As you can see I don't have much experience with
plants that normally don't grow in my area, but I am willing
to put more effort in to have something different. I get
so tired of seeing the same plants. Any information would
be appreciated. Thank you so much for your time and all
•Texas
ANSWER
17:
Even though we have similar climates, things may grow
different where you are. One of the best ways for you
to learn more about growing plants where you are is to
join a local garden club, and see how others handle their
plants there.
Regarding the soil mix for caudiciforms, we grow ours
in a mix of 50%Canadian peat moss and 50%perlite. The
amount of water given varies a lot depending on the species
and time of year. It is best to keep caudiciforms on the
dry side. Give them a little more water when they start
to grow, or new leaves sprout, etc. The faster grower
needs more water than a slow grower.
Dealing with the cold can be hard if you don't know your
plant well. Many plants will even benefit from one cold
spell or two, even if there was damage. When we state
that a plant's minimum temperature is 35F it means that
the plant mat start to damage at that temperature. It
may die only when it gets to 25F. There are many other
things involved to be really sure. Cloth covers over the
plants (never plastic or newspaper) may increase the temperature
by 5-7 degrees. It works for us and we do it every year.
The longer the cloth the better.
I hope to have answered your questions, but keep in mind
that there are too many variables involved, and what works
in one case may not work for others.